Welcome to our new Website… (from Al)
Hello, I’m Al Gaston. My wife Barbara and I are the new owners of Flooring & More | Carpet One, formerly Columbus Carpet Mill Store. Our store has a 50-year history of offering the finest flooring products and knowledgeable, friendly customer service. We intend to expand upon that positive reputation by offering even more products and services to exceed your expectations.
I plan to use this forum to tell you about those products and services. And not just products and services, but also tips on all sorts of flooring-associated topics, plus answers to your questions about flooring products. If you have a question, just click on the ASK AL link and I’ll publish the answer to your question here in this forum.
I look forward to hearing from you.
All the best,
Al
Have a question concerning your next carpet or flooring project? Click to email direct.
Rugs: A Choice for Every Application
An Expert Guide to Rug Construction and Fibers…
Area Rug Construction Methods
There are a variety of construction methods for area rugs. Each method of construction has its own benefit, look and price point. Depending on the application, we can offer a range of choices to our customers.
Important note:
Regardless of the construction method, a natural characteristic of WOOL rugs is some shedding for the first few months. Shedding is not a defect and will decline after a few months of vacuuming. Higher quality wools such as New Zealand wool found in the Nourisan rugs have minimal shedding, but also command a higher price.
Hand Tufted Rugs
Hand tufted rugs are made by hand when using an electric tufting gun to form a pattern. These rugs can be made with many types of fibers including wool, silk, synthetic or a combination. To construct area rugs that are hand tufted rugs, pile yarns are pushed through a special backing. A stencil is drawn on the canvas so both design and colors can be meticulously placed. The rugs are then finished in a traditional manner creating beautiful hand made area rugs. Hand tufted rugs offer an incredible value due to the price points generally ranging in the middle, above machine made and less expensive than hand knotted rugs.
Machine Made Area Rugs
Machine Made rugs are produced on a variety of machines including power looms, Wilton looms, Axminster looms and others. Rugs are crafted on these automated looms for specific yarn placement and weaving. A computer controls the colors woven into these area rugs thus producing the final design. Area rugs made by machine can often times be less expensive than rugs made by hand, but this is not always the case. There are thousands of beautiful machine made rugs, both wool and synthetic, to best compliment your home.
Hand Knotted Rugs
Hand knotted rugs refers to rugs woven by hand from various origins of the world such as Tibet, India, China, Etc. The fringe of these area rugs is attached to a loom which runs the length and the width of the rugs being woven. This fringe forms the backbone of these area rugs. Hundreds of thousands of “knots” are then tied by hand thus creating the area rugs design. There is no finer construction than a wool rug which is a hand knotted area rug. The precision and clarity of design creates the most beautiful rugs in the world. Hand knotted rug are often referred to as “heirloom qualities”.
Flat Weave Rugs
Similar to hand knotted rugs, flat weave rugs are woven on a foundation made up of cotton warps (rope) strung on a frame called a loom. Instead of looping wool around the warps and creating a thick wool pile, the yarns are threaded back and forth covering all the cotton thread like a blanket or tapestry. This weaving process creates a very flat pile. Because of the manufacturing method, flat weave rugs are usually produced more quickly than hand knotted rugs. The beauty of these area rugs is revealed by the fact that they do not display the thick pile found in hand knotted rugs. Instead, these area rugs show a flat textural look. Flat weave rugs are available in many styles and designs. They are beautiful and frequently used in many applications by home decorators and interior designers alike. The unique style of these rugs makes them highly desirable. Price points range from low to high end, depending upon how densely they are woven and the materials used.
Hand-hooked Rugs
A Hand-hooked rug is made exactly the same way as a hand-tufted rug, except that the hand-hooked rug usually has a short, looped pile instead of a thick, cut pile. Also, the backing of area rugs which are hand-hooked rugs are often a light-weight mesh instead of a heavy canvas backing. Designs range from area rugs which are decribed as country french rugs to traditional rugs. With a moderate price-point, these rugs are both beautiful and offer a great deal of design. Traditional Rugs which are hand hooked add both beauty and fashion to all home dècor
Sisal Area Rugs
The textural look of sisal and jute area rugs is a favorite of interior designers. Sisal is a natural fiber derived from the “Agave Sisalana” cactus plant that grows in the semi arid regions of Brazil and Africa. Area rugs made from sisal come in a wide variety of patterns, styles and colors. These rugs can be made with optional area rug borders including tapestries, jute, cotton, wool and many others. Rugs are also available in sisal wool. This combines the softness of wool with the rougher textural elements prevalent in sisal rugs. Area rugs made of sisal or jute have excellent durability and are easy to clean.
Have a question concerning your next carpet or flooring project? Click to email direct.
How Do I Take Care of My Laminate Flooring?
An Expert Guide to Laminate Flooring Care and Maintenance…
Care and Maintenance
Laminates are made to last. Warranty protection typically covers wear, fading and staining for 20 years; moisture resistance from normal cleaners and household spills for 20 years or more; permanence of seaming for 20 years or more.
Laminates need minimal care. Just mop using a cleaner recommended by the manufacturer. Water can damage laminate flooring, so limit water use to damp mopping.
Although laminates are built to be dent- and scratch-resistant, their finish can be marred by abrasive dirt and grit. Vacuum regularly with a wand attachment (but avoid using the beater bar attachment) or use a dust mop. Don’t use a broom; it can scratch.
If a floor does sustain scratches, they can be concealed using special pencils made by the manufacturer. Chipping and other dimensional degradation can be fixed with fillers in stick form.
It’s a good idea to use chair and table leg protectors.
More to consider . . .
Laminates can’t be refinished or recoated, and replacing any damaged sections is a job for a professional installer. Though they may last up to 30 years, laminates don’t last as long as natural materials.
Have a question concerning your next carpet or flooring project? Click to email direct.
How is laminate flooring installed?
An Expert Guide to Laminate Flooring Installation…
Installation
Laminate flooring is installed using the floating floor method. An underlayment is laid on the sub-floor, and the laminate flooring is laid on top; it’s not attached with glue or nails. The laminate can be installed over concrete and wood sub-floors and can also be laid over in-floor radiant heating.
Premium laminate provides a precision-locking mechanism that eliminates the appearance of gaps at the seams. Laminate planks snap together, tongue-and-groove style, so that the floor sits, or floats, above the sub-floor. Tongue-and-groove edges of laminate planks are treated with special sealants to keep moisture from penetrating to the core.
Use the proper underlayment . . .
Use an underlayment specified by the manufacturer of the laminate. Otherwise, the product warranty can be voided.
The underlayment functions in several ways:
- It extends floor life by providing a moisture barrier.
- It cushions the floor.
- It helps muffle sound.
- It protects against dings and gouging.
- It corrects for any irregularities in the surface of the sub-floor.
Allow room for the floor to expand and contract . . .
Because laminate flooring is made from cellulose fibers, it will expand and contract with changes in temperature and humidity without buckling. It should be installed with an expansion gap between it and the wall to accommodate dimensional fluctuations. Use quarter round molding around the perimeter of a room to conceal that gap and give the floor a finished, unified look.
Install transitions when necessary for a unified flow . . .
Transitions may be necessary where the laminate floor butts up against another flooring surface in the room or at a doorway, or where a small percentage of the laminate is glued together. Some transition options are:
- T-molding – fits over the laminate and an adjoining surface of approximately the same height (tile, hardwood or another laminate). It can be used in both openings and doorways. It’s not used for transition to carpeting.
- Reducer strips – fit over the adjoining floor surface to form a transition to a floor that is lower, such as vinyl or carpet that is glued in place.
- End caps – abut adjoining floor surfaces, forming a transition to a higher floor or to carpet equal in height or higher than the laminate. They may be applicable for transitions to exterior doorways.
- Step nosing – a protective strip that finishes the edge of laminate floors at staircases and landings. It can either be flush or overlap.
 |
 |
High-moisture locations require special considerations . . .
Laminate flooring can be exposed to normal moisture, but it’s sensitive to excessive moisture and standing water. You must remove the toilet before installing a laminate floor in a bathroom; you can’t work around it. Floating installation should not be used in a bathroom; seams should be glued to protect against water seepage.
If used in a bathroom or kitchen, laminate planks need to be caulked at any seams where the floor will meet a cabinet or butt up against a wall. Seal the perimeter of the floor, too. Use only 100% silicone caulk. It’s not necessary to caulk between the planks.
More to consider . . .
Avoid optical illusions. Using a pattern of long strips in a long, narrow room will make you feel as though you’re in a bowling alley. But in a square room, such a pattern helps to elongate the room and make it look more rectangular. Some laminate floors are sold with the underlayment already attached, but they afford less sound absorption and less moisture protection.
Have a question concerning your next carpet or flooring project? Click to email direct.
Laminates. They’re laminated.
An Expert Guide to Laminate Construction…
Construction
The look of laminates is derived from their construction. Like laminate countertops, laminate flooring is made by bonding multiple layers of material and fusing them together by applying pressure to create a tough, resilient flooring product that looks amazingly like the real thing!
Core Layer
First, the foundation is created with a core layer – an inner layer made from high-density fiberboard (HDF) for dimensional stability. Usually, it’s impregnated with melamine, a resin, which makes the laminate more resistant to moisture and adds to the floor’s strength. HDF doesn’t expand and contract with temperature changes.
Image Design Layer
Next, a high-definition paper photographic layer is applied on top of the core layer to create a realistic-looking plank.
Backing
Both layers are backed with another, resin-saturated paper layer, which is typically laminated itself, that sets up a moisture barrier to protect against warping.
Outer Layer
And finally, an outer, wear layer is applied on top, creating a finished plank with a durable, scuff- and scratch-resistant, easy-to-clean surface. The key to the outer layer’s durability is aluminum oxide, which protects against staining, fading and overall wear “ and is the hardest natural substance known to man other than diamonds! Traditionally, the wear layer was made of polyurethane, but today, better-quality laminates use urethane to which aluminum oxide has been added.
Fusing the layers together through pressure is the final step, producing direct pressure laminate (DPL), which is the most common form for residential uses, or high pressure laminate (HPL), which is more suited to high-traffic and heavy-use applications. Consequently, HPL is typically more expensive than DPL.
More to consider . . .
Laminate flooring feels harder underfoot than hardwoods. A foam underlay will help somewhat. And laminate flooring doesn’t absorb sound well, so it may sound hollow when you walk on it, especially in high heels. An acoustic underlayment offers a limited solution. HPL laminate is more traffic-resilient than DPL and better resists “dinging” from objects dropped above counter height. However, it’s harder to emboss, and as a result, may not appear as realistic as DPL laminate designs.
Have a question concerning your next carpet or flooring project? Click to email direct.
