An Expert Guide to Tile Installation…
Installation
Installation accounts for about 75% of the cost of a tile floor.
There are a number of steps required to properly install a tile floor, so it’s important that you hire an installer who knows how to do the job properly. So, while you may find an abundant supply of installers who say they can “do the job for less,” they may not have the know-how to do the job, or they may cut corners. And once tile is installed, corrective measures can be very expensive, even to the point of requiring a complete re-installation to ensure that lot colors will match.
Preparing the sub-floor
As with any flooring option, creating the proper foundation for the flooring product is crucial and will either ensure – or compromise – the life of your floor. With tile, in particular, the sub-floor surface must be flat and structurally sound. Rigid tile is literally rigid – and improperly prepared subfloors can be unforgiving when you walk on the tile resulting in cracks!
Concrete – Most tile is installed over concrete slab. Older slabs typically have stress cracks and are uneven, so leveling compound will have to be applied. If the floor can’t be made uniform – at one level – you shouldn’t install tile. An additional consideration is the use of a “crack suppressing” membrane installed over the concrete slab before the tile is installed.
Wood – When tile is installed over wood, a cement backer board is placed on the sub-floor before installing tile. Never install ceramic tile directly over a wood sub-floor. Because hardwood expands and contracts, it will fracture the tile and grout.
More to consider . . .
Don’t let an installer tell you he can substitute plywood or particle backer board on your wood sub-floor. Those materials can’t stand up to moisture!
Cutting the Tile
Every tile job will require cuts to fit the tile to the space. Fortunately, tile can easily be cut straight with a power wet saw or by scoring and snapping. Curved cuts require tile nippers, a tile saw or a carbide rod saw.
Setting and Grouting
As it is applied to the floor, the tile must be set in mortar. The mortar is spread on the backer board or concrete floor a section at the time. Next, tile is laid onto the mortar and leveled. Spacers may be used to leave space for uniform grout lines. After the mortar has set, the spacers are removed, and grout is spread over the surface, taking care to work the grout fully into the spaces between each tile. Next, the excess grout is removed from the surface of the tiles so that it remains only in the spaces in between.
 |
 |
 |
 |
 typical grout colors |
|
More to consider:
Mortar must be spread evenly; if there are gaps, the tiles can break when you walk on them. Make sure your installer doesn’t use mortar that’s stiff because it will be difficult to spread evenly resulting in “voids” in the mortar which can lead to cracks when you walk on the tile. Also make sure your installer is using a trowel that’s the right size for the job. Proper adhesion is the key to proper installation, and if the trowel is smaller than that specified by the tile manufacturer, then the installer will use less mortar over a larger area, and adhesion will be inferior.
Sealing Tile and Grout
Finally, a sealant is applied as required, depending on the tile choice involved. Natural stone tile, for instance, must be sealed to protect against stains. There’s no need to seal ceramic and porcelain tiles, but all their grout lines should be sealed. Grout can’t be sealed until it’s been cured, and that can take up to seven days.
Molding and Bullnose
For the finishing touch, quarter round or other molding or a bullnose tile is installed around the perimeter of the baseboards to cover cut edges of the floor tiles.
Have a question concerning your next carpet or flooring project? Click to email direct.
