An Expert Guide to Laminate Flooring Installation…
Installation
Laminate flooring is installed using the floating floor method. An underlayment is laid on the sub-floor, and the laminate flooring is laid on top; it’s not attached with glue or nails. The laminate can be installed over concrete and wood sub-floors and can also be laid over in-floor radiant heating.
Premium laminate provides a precision-locking mechanism that eliminates the appearance of gaps at the seams. Laminate planks snap together, tongue-and-groove style, so that the floor sits, or floats, above the sub-floor. Tongue-and-groove edges of laminate planks are treated with special sealants to keep moisture from penetrating to the core.
Use the proper underlayment . . .
Use an underlayment specified by the manufacturer of the laminate. Otherwise, the product warranty can be voided.
The underlayment functions in several ways:
- It extends floor life by providing a moisture barrier.
- It cushions the floor.
- It helps muffle sound.
- It protects against dings and gouging.
- It corrects for any irregularities in the surface of the sub-floor.
Allow room for the floor to expand and contract . . .
Because laminate flooring is made from cellulose fibers, it will expand and contract with changes in temperature and humidity without buckling. It should be installed with an expansion gap between it and the wall to accommodate dimensional fluctuations. Use quarter round molding around the perimeter of a room to conceal that gap and give the floor a finished, unified look.
Install transitions when necessary for a unified flow . . .
Transitions may be necessary where the laminate floor butts up against another flooring surface in the room or at a doorway, or where a small percentage of the laminate is glued together. Some transition options are:
- T-molding – fits over the laminate and an adjoining surface of approximately the same height (tile, hardwood or another laminate). It can be used in both openings and doorways. It’s not used for transition to carpeting.
- Reducer strips – fit over the adjoining floor surface to form a transition to a floor that is lower, such as vinyl or carpet that is glued in place.
- End caps – abut adjoining floor surfaces, forming a transition to a higher floor or to carpet equal in height or higher than the laminate. They may be applicable for transitions to exterior doorways.
- Step nosing – a protective strip that finishes the edge of laminate floors at staircases and landings. It can either be flush or overlap.
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High-moisture locations require special considerations . . .
Laminate flooring can be exposed to normal moisture, but it’s sensitive to excessive moisture and standing water. You must remove the toilet before installing a laminate floor in a bathroom; you can’t work around it. Floating installation should not be used in a bathroom; seams should be glued to protect against water seepage.
If used in a bathroom or kitchen, laminate planks need to be caulked at any seams where the floor will meet a cabinet or butt up against a wall. Seal the perimeter of the floor, too. Use only 100% silicone caulk. It’s not necessary to caulk between the planks.
More to consider . . .
Avoid optical illusions. Using a pattern of long strips in a long, narrow room will make you feel as though you’re in a bowling alley. But in a square room, such a pattern helps to elongate the room and make it look more rectangular. Some laminate floors are sold with the underlayment already attached, but they afford less sound absorption and less moisture protection.
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