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Use this money saving coupon!
Use the valuable coupon below to get up to $100 off of your qualifying purchase!
Coupon valid through July 24, 2010. Not valid on previous purchases. See store for details.
Have a question concerning your next carpet or flooring project? Click to email direct.
Spring 2010 Cleaning Specials from Steamatic
Enjoy Special Savings on Cleaning Services from Steamatic…
Call Steamatic of Columbus (a division of Flooring & More Carpet One) for special savings on carpet, upholstery and area rug cleaning through July 24, 2010. Offer only good with this coupon.
Have a question concerning your next carpet or flooring project? Click to email direct.
Home Spot Removal Guide for Carpet
HOME SPOT REMOVAL GUIDE
Here are a few helpful hints for managing stain mishaps in your home:
- Treat all spots from the outer edge of the spot to the center to prevent rings and spreading of the stain.
- Patience should be taken with each treatment. Some spots react slowly to spotting solutions and some stains will require professional treatment.
- Spots, spills and stains should be treated as they occur. The longer a spot remains, the more difficult it will be to remove. An excellent spotter to keep on hand for food/food coloring spills is club soda. Use a fresh bottle; blot; rinse with water; blot dry.
- Always use a clean, white, absorbent cloth for applying and blotting the solution. Do not scrub or rub the fibers as this could cause damage to the fibers and are not repairable.
- Remove excess of any spill before application of spotting agents.
- PRE-TEST all spotting solutions to determine the colorfastness of the fabric or fiber. Test the fabric in an inconspicuous area.
For more helpful hints or to schedule professional cleaning services, call our sister company, Steamatic Of Columbus, at 706-324-2224 or visit them on the web at http://www.steamaticofcolumbus.com/. 
HOME CARE SPOTTING SOLUTIONS:
- Detergent Solution–One teaspoonful of a colorless, mild detergent in one cup of lukewarm water.
- Ammonia Solution–One tablespoon of clear household ammonia in one-half cup of water.
- Vinegar Solution–One-third cup of white household vinegar in two-thirds cup of water.
- P/V Remover–Paint, varnish or grease remover available in most hardware stores. (*Use sparingly and DO NOT pour directly onto fabric or fibers. P/V Remover can dissolve the glue that holds the layers of carpet together resulting in delamination and a possible bubbling of the carpet.)
COFFEE – STAIN?
Brown, darkens with age so…
1. Apply detergent solution, blot
2. Apply vinegar solution, blot
3. Rinse with water, blot dry
INK (Ballpoint) – STAIN?
Can be any color, usually blue or black so…
(On smooth finish vinyl/leather) Use hair spray; apply; let set; clean with detergent solution
(On carpet/fabric) Use P/V remover
LIPSTICK – STAIN?
Oily, waxy, all colors…
1. Remove excess
2. Apply P/V remover, blot
3. Apply ammonia solution, blot
4. Rinse with water, blot dry
MUD – STAIN?
Grey, brown, stiff when dry…
1. Let dry, remove excess
2. Apply detergent solution, blot
3. Rinse with water, blot dry
MUSTARD – STAIN?
Yellowish, brown…
1. Apply detergent solution, blot
2. Apply vinegar solution, blot
3. Rinse with water, blot dry
NAIL POLISH – STAIN?
Red, pink, stiffens when dry…
1. Apply P/V remover, blot
2. Apply detergent solution, blot
3. Rinse with water, blot dry
PRESERVES, JAM, JELLY – STAIN?
Usually reddish or blue purple; will cause stiffness of fiber..
1. Apply detergent solution, blot
2. Apply vinegar solution, blot
3. Rinse with water, blot
SOOT – STAIN?
Black spots, smudges (Recommended for minor spots/smudges only.)
1. Vacuum first, apply P/V remover, blot
2. Apply detergent solution, blot
3. Rinse with water, blot dry
TOOTHPASTE – STAIN?
White, green, built up on surface…
1. Apply detergent solution, blot
2. Apply vinegar solution, blot
3. Apply ammonia solution, blot
4. Rinse with water, blot dry
URINE – STAIN?
Yellow, brown, darkens with age…
1. Apply detergent solution, blot
2. Apply vinegar solution, blot
3. Rinse with water, blot dry
WINE – STAIN?
Red, purple, absorbed appearance…
1. Apply detergent solution, blot
2. Apply vinegar solution, blot
3. Apply ammonia solution, blot
4. Rinse with water, blot dry
Have a question concerning your next carpet or flooring project? Click to email direct.
Rugs: A Choice for Every Application
An Expert Guide to Rug Construction and Fibers…
Area Rug Construction Methods
There are a variety of construction methods for area rugs. Each method of construction has its own benefit, look and price point. Depending on the application, we can offer a range of choices to our customers.
Important note:
Regardless of the construction method, a natural characteristic of WOOL rugs is some shedding for the first few months. Shedding is not a defect and will decline after a few months of vacuuming. Higher quality wools such as New Zealand wool found in the Nourisan rugs have minimal shedding, but also command a higher price.
Hand Tufted Rugs
Hand tufted rugs are made by hand when using an electric tufting gun to form a pattern. These rugs can be made with many types of fibers including wool, silk, synthetic or a combination. To construct area rugs that are hand tufted rugs, pile yarns are pushed through a special backing. A stencil is drawn on the canvas so both design and colors can be meticulously placed. The rugs are then finished in a traditional manner creating beautiful hand made area rugs. Hand tufted rugs offer an incredible value due to the price points generally ranging in the middle, above machine made and less expensive than hand knotted rugs.
Machine Made Area Rugs
Machine Made rugs are produced on a variety of machines including power looms, Wilton looms, Axminster looms and others. Rugs are crafted on these automated looms for specific yarn placement and weaving. A computer controls the colors woven into these area rugs thus producing the final design. Area rugs made by machine can often times be less expensive than rugs made by hand, but this is not always the case. There are thousands of beautiful machine made rugs, both wool and synthetic, to best compliment your home.
Hand Knotted Rugs
Hand knotted rugs refers to rugs woven by hand from various origins of the world such as Tibet, India, China, Etc. The fringe of these area rugs is attached to a loom which runs the length and the width of the rugs being woven. This fringe forms the backbone of these area rugs. Hundreds of thousands of “knots” are then tied by hand thus creating the area rugs design. There is no finer construction than a wool rug which is a hand knotted area rug. The precision and clarity of design creates the most beautiful rugs in the world. Hand knotted rug are often referred to as “heirloom qualities”.
Flat Weave Rugs
Similar to hand knotted rugs, flat weave rugs are woven on a foundation made up of cotton warps (rope) strung on a frame called a loom. Instead of looping wool around the warps and creating a thick wool pile, the yarns are threaded back and forth covering all the cotton thread like a blanket or tapestry. This weaving process creates a very flat pile. Because of the manufacturing method, flat weave rugs are usually produced more quickly than hand knotted rugs. The beauty of these area rugs is revealed by the fact that they do not display the thick pile found in hand knotted rugs. Instead, these area rugs show a flat textural look. Flat weave rugs are available in many styles and designs. They are beautiful and frequently used in many applications by home decorators and interior designers alike. The unique style of these rugs makes them highly desirable. Price points range from low to high end, depending upon how densely they are woven and the materials used.
Hand-hooked Rugs
A Hand-hooked rug is made exactly the same way as a hand-tufted rug, except that the hand-hooked rug usually has a short, looped pile instead of a thick, cut pile. Also, the backing of area rugs which are hand-hooked rugs are often a light-weight mesh instead of a heavy canvas backing. Designs range from area rugs which are decribed as country french rugs to traditional rugs. With a moderate price-point, these rugs are both beautiful and offer a great deal of design. Traditional Rugs which are hand hooked add both beauty and fashion to all home dècor
Sisal Area Rugs
The textural look of sisal and jute area rugs is a favorite of interior designers. Sisal is a natural fiber derived from the “Agave Sisalana” cactus plant that grows in the semi arid regions of Brazil and Africa. Area rugs made from sisal come in a wide variety of patterns, styles and colors. These rugs can be made with optional area rug borders including tapestries, jute, cotton, wool and many others. Rugs are also available in sisal wool. This combines the softness of wool with the rougher textural elements prevalent in sisal rugs. Area rugs made of sisal or jute have excellent durability and are easy to clean.
Have a question concerning your next carpet or flooring project? Click to email direct.
How Do I Take Care of My Laminate Flooring?
An Expert Guide to Laminate Flooring Care and Maintenance…
Care and Maintenance
Laminates are made to last. Warranty protection typically covers wear, fading and staining for 20 years; moisture resistance from normal cleaners and household spills for 20 years or more; permanence of seaming for 20 years or more.
Laminates need minimal care. Just mop using a cleaner recommended by the manufacturer. Water can damage laminate flooring, so limit water use to damp mopping.
Although laminates are built to be dent- and scratch-resistant, their finish can be marred by abrasive dirt and grit. Vacuum regularly with a wand attachment (but avoid using the beater bar attachment) or use a dust mop. Don’t use a broom; it can scratch.
If a floor does sustain scratches, they can be concealed using special pencils made by the manufacturer. Chipping and other dimensional degradation can be fixed with fillers in stick form.
It’s a good idea to use chair and table leg protectors.
More to consider . . .
Laminates can’t be refinished or recoated, and replacing any damaged sections is a job for a professional installer. Though they may last up to 30 years, laminates don’t last as long as natural materials.
Have a question concerning your next carpet or flooring project? Click to email direct.
How is laminate flooring installed?
An Expert Guide to Laminate Flooring Installation…
Installation
Laminate flooring is installed using the floating floor method. An underlayment is laid on the sub-floor, and the laminate flooring is laid on top; it’s not attached with glue or nails. The laminate can be installed over concrete and wood sub-floors and can also be laid over in-floor radiant heating.
Premium laminate provides a precision-locking mechanism that eliminates the appearance of gaps at the seams. Laminate planks snap together, tongue-and-groove style, so that the floor sits, or floats, above the sub-floor. Tongue-and-groove edges of laminate planks are treated with special sealants to keep moisture from penetrating to the core.
Use the proper underlayment . . .
Use an underlayment specified by the manufacturer of the laminate. Otherwise, the product warranty can be voided.
The underlayment f
unctions in several ways:
- It extends floor life by providing a moisture barrier.
- It cushions the floor.
- It helps muffle sound.
- It protects against dings and gouging.
- It corrects for any irregularities in the surface of the sub-floor.
Allow room for the floor to expand and contract . . .
Because laminate flooring is made from cellulose fibers, it will expand and contract with changes in temperature and humidity without buckling. It should be installed with an expansion gap between it and the wall to accommodate dimensional fluctuations. Use quarter round molding around the perimeter of a room to conceal that gap and give the floor a finished, unified look.
Install transitions when necessary for a unified flow . . .
Transitions may be necessary where the laminate floor butts up against another flooring surface in the room or at a doorway, or where a small percentage of the laminate is glued together. Some transition options are:
- T-molding – fits over the laminate and an adjoining surface of approximately the same height (tile, hardwood or another laminate). It can be used in both openings and doorways. It’s not used for transition to carpeting.
- Reducer strips – fit over the adjoining floor surface to form a transition to a floor that is lower, such as vinyl or carpet that is glued in place.
- End caps – abut adjoining floor surfaces, forming a transition to a higher floor or to carpet equal in height or higher than the laminate. They may be applicable for transitions to exterior doorways.
- Step nosing – a protective strip that finishes the edge of laminate floors at staircases and landings. It can either be flush or overlap.
High-moisture locations require special considerations . . .
Laminate flooring can be exposed to normal moisture, but it’s sensitive to excessive moisture and standing water. You must remove the toilet before installing a laminate floor in a bathroom; you can’t work around it. Floating installation should not be used in a bathroom; seams should be glued to protect against water seepage.
If used in a bathroom or kitchen, laminate planks need to be caulked at any seams where the floor will meet a cabinet or butt up against a wall. Seal the perimeter of the floor, too. Use only 100% silicone caulk. It’s not necessary to caulk between the planks.
More to consider . . .
Avoid optical illusions. Using a pattern of long strips in a long, narrow room will make you feel as though you’re in a bowling alley. But in a square room, such a pattern helps to elongate the room and make it look more rectangular. Some laminate floors are sold with the underlayment already attached, but they afford less sound absorption and less moisture protection.
Have a question concerning your next carpet or flooring project? Click to email direct.
Laminates. They’re laminated.
An Expert Guide to Laminate Construction…
Construction
The look of laminates is derived from their construction. Like laminate countertops, laminate flooring is made by bonding multiple layers of material and fusing them together by applying pressure to create a tough, resilient flooring product that looks amazingly like “the real thing!”
Core Layer
First, the foundation is created with a core layer – an inner layer made from high-density fiberboard (HDF) for dimensional stability. Usually, it’s impregnated with melamine, a resin, which makes the laminate more resistant to moisture and adds to the floor’s strength. HDF doesn’t expand and contract with temperature changes.
Image Design Layer
Next, a high-definition paper photographic layer is applied on top of the core layer to create a realistic-looking plank.
Backing
Both layers are backed with another, resin-saturated paper layer, which is typically laminated itself, that sets up a moisture barrier to protect against warping.
Outer Layer
And finally, an outer, wear layer is applied on top, creating a finished plank with a durable, scuff- and scratch-resistant, easy-to-clean surface. The key to the outer layer’s durability is aluminum oxide, which protects against staining, fading and overall wear – and is the hardest natural substance known to man other than diamonds! Traditionally, the wear layer was made of polyurethane, but today, better-quality laminates use urethane to which aluminum oxide has been added.
Fusing the layers together through pressure is the final step, producing direct pressure laminate (DPL), which is the most common form for residential uses, or high pressure laminate (HPL), which is more suited to high-traffic and heavy-use applications. Consequently, HPL is typically more expensive than DPL.
More to consider . . .
Laminate flooring feels harder underfoot than hardwoods. A foam underlay will help somewhat. And laminate flooring doesn’t absorb sound well, so it may sound hollow when you walk on it, especially in high heels. An acoustic underlayment offers a limited solution. HPL laminate is more traffic-resilient than DPL and better resists “dinging” from objects dropped above counter height. However, it’s harder to emboss, and as a result, may not appear as realistic as DPL laminate designs.
Have a question concerning your next carpet or flooring project? Click to email direct.
Laminate Style: Designed to Mimic Nature
An Expert Guide to the Visual Versatility of Laminates…
Style
The most important thing to know about laminates is that they are designed to mimic nature, so they can pretend to be any kind of exotic hardwood, natural stone, brick or ceramic tile desired. They can replicate the graining, knotting, color and texture of real wood, including some that would actually be impractical as flooring. Think of laminates as hybrids that blend the beauty of natural materials with the practicality of man-made ingenuity. Often, it’s hard to tell the laminate from the real thing.
An optional embossing process, in which patterns are pressed into the outer wear layer, further enhances the realistic look through a range of textures that resemble their natural counterparts. And, an enhanced embossing process, called embossing in register, takes the idea one step further, with the pattern following the grain of the design for the ultimate natural look.
Laminates designed to look like hardwood come in single planks with beveled edges or in three-strip planks with square edges. Laminates designed to look like natural stone and ceramic tiles come in planks with images of a series of tiles.
Laminate flooring is appropriate for any room, including both above and below grade. However, using it in a bathroom requires some precautions.
More to consider . . . Grainy or shaded patterns won’t show soil as fast as darker or very light patterns. But keep in mind that a light texture looks more like the surface it’s designed to reproduce and will also be less slippery when it’s damp. And don’t use wood and stone laminates to butt up against the real thing, because the laminate will look artificial and less satisfactory. Because laminates last such a long time, it’s best to choose a pattern that you can live with for years. Avoid overwhelming patterns or trendy looks that may not work when you decide to redecorate.
Have a question concerning your next carpet or flooring project? Click to email direct.
Exactly what is Laminate Flooring?
An Expert Guide to Laminate Flooring…
Laminate Overview
When you think of laminates, countertops most often come to mind. But today, laminates are among the most affordable flooring alternatives on the market, offering a broad spectrum of styles with the look of hardwood or natural stone – plus the benefits of increased durability and reduced maintenance.
Widely used in Europe for decades, laminate flooring options have been available in the U. S. since the 1990s. An outgrowth of laminate countertop manufacturing – where layers of plain and decorative paper are bonded together to create a hard, patterned or colored surfacing material – laminate flooring products are 20 to 30 times harder wearing underfoot than most wood and natural stone floors, making them particularly pet- and kid-friendly, and good in high-traffic areas.
Have a question concerning your next carpet or flooring project? Click to email direct.
Carpet: Infinite Colors, Styles, Textures, Fibers
An Expert Guide to Carpet Basics…
Carpet Overview
Undoubtedly, carpet is the natural choice when the utmost in warmth and plushness are desired. All carpet is made by stitching yarn through a backing material, creating many looped tufts, then applying an adhesive backing to bind the tufts in place.
But from there, the sky’s the limit in terms of the endless variety of color, texture, style and durability in carpeting for home and business settings. Regardless of the application, there’s a carpeting choice that’s right for you.
In making your selection, it’s important to keep in mind several key factors that affect every carpet’s quality, price and durability:
- Carpet Construction
- Style
- Carpet Padding
- Installation
- Care and maintenance
Have a question concerning your next carpet or flooring project? Click to email direct.
